Marphoghoro
Under Ogre’s Thumb
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Marphogoro lies underneath a huge rock tower of Ogre Thumb, at an elevation of 4400m it is quite distinguishable by red coloured rock above it. It offers views of Sokha La over the Sosbun Brak - leads to Sokha Glacier and the Bash valley. Sokha Pass is a steep snow slope on both sides and should be attempted by those with mountaineering experience and equipment.
Four chapters
Best Time to Visit
spring
April – May
Poor timeBiafo-Hispar traverse snowbound at 4,900m — glacier still fractured, expeditions rarely attempt this window.
summer
June – August
Best timeThe only viable expedition window — long days, stable weather over the Biafo, Hispar and Snow Lake plateau.
autumn
September
ShoulderColder nights and first snow arrive — late-season teams still get clear days but weather turns fast.
winter
October – March
Poor timeDeep snow shuts the traverse — glacier crevasses, storms and no viable approach until late June.